We based ourselves out at Whangārei Heads for a few days, chasing a mix of fishing, walks and a bit of time by the water. It’s one of those places that takes a bit of effort to get to, but once you’re there, you’ll be glad you made the trip.
Whangārei itself is the main hub of Northland’s east coast. It’s where you’ll find your main supermarkets, fuel, and supplies before heading out to the coast. The Heads area feels completely different: slower, more open and built around the ocean and surrounding maunga.
What We Did
We set up right by the beach at a freedom camping spot and made the most of it. Easy access for a swim and even better for dropping a line in. Snapper and trevally were on the menu most days, which made it hard to leave.
We had planned to climb Mt Manaia, but the weather had other ideas. Tracks were closed due to conditions, which seems to happen out here after heavy rain.
Instead, friends took us out to Ocean Beach where we jumped on the start of the Te Whara Track. Even just doing a small section gave us a feel for it, definitely one we’ll come back for when conditions are better.
There are a lot of walks in this area, but timing matters. If the weather’s been rough, expect closures and plan accordingly.
What Stood Out
How easy it is to settle into a rhythm out here.
Wake up, check the water, head out for a fish, maybe a short walk, then back to camp. It’s simple, but that’s what makes it good.
Also, the contrast between Whangārei town and the Heads. You’ve got everything you need in town, but the Heads feel like a proper escape.
Tohu Tip & Local Knowledge
- Check track conditions before you go — weather impacts this area a lot and closures are common after rain
- Mt Manaia is a must-do — but only when open, it’s steep and exposed in parts
- Freedom camping options are solid — especially near the beach if you want easy water access
- Stock up in Whangārei — Pak’nSave and other stores have everything you need before heading out
- Fuel up before the Heads — options are limited once you’re out there
- Great fishing spot — snapper and trevally are common if conditions are right
- Ocean Beach access is easy — good spot for a walk even if you’re not doing full tracks
Worth Adding to Your Trip
On the way in or out, stop at Whangārei Falls. It’s a short loop walk with easy access, good parking, and a nice spot for a picnic.
If you’re coming from the south, Ruakākā Beach Holiday Park is a solid place to stay. Good facilities, relaxed feel, and not far from the Heads.
We also stopped in at Handsome Frog Bakery for coffee and pastries, well worth it.
If you’re travelling through Te Tai Tokerau – Northland by campervan, Whangārei Heads is worth adding in if you’ve got the time to slow down a bit.
Our Tohu Travellers itineraries and destination guides help you connect places like this with the right timing, so you’re not missing out when tracks or conditions change.
“He moana, he oranga.“
The ocean is life.