Our Time in the Bay of Islands: Real Travel Experience NZ

We based ourselves in Paihia for a week and used it as our hub to explore around Pēwhairangi – Bay of Islands. Easy to get around, plenty to see and a good mix of quick stops and places to slow down.

Kawakawa

State Highway 1 runs straight through Kawakawa and most people pass right through without stopping. We’re glad we stopped here.

We stayed one night at the freedom camp right beside the Hundertwasser Toilets. It was a great little spot, quiet, easy and had everything we needed. Showers were available for $4 and the toilets themselves are worth a look, colourful and a bit of fun.

The town has all the basics. We got our laundry done and asked a few locals where to eat. Railway Station Café was recommended for pies and Stumpies for fish and chips. We went with Stumpies and it didn’t disappoint. I even ran back to the camper to grab my homemade tartare sauce while we waited.

We also needed help with the van and ended up at Madcanix Kawakawa. Honestly, they went above and beyond. Sorted the issue, charged next to nothing, and did it all with a smile.

The next morning there was a local market on. We weren’t planning on buying anything, but the baking got us. Caramel slice and lemon slice for our evening cuppa. Definitely worth it. Support the locals, they’re the heart of every place you visit.

Tohu Tip: Stay a night if you can. It’s more than just a quick stop.
Local Knowledge: Thursday is market day and worth timing your visit for. Definitely grab a cake with your cuppa, so worth it.

Paihia Township

Paihia has that easy coastal feel where you can slow down and let the day unfold.

It’s a small town, but there’s plenty going on without it feeling rushed. Everything is close, the waterfront is always in view and it’s the kind of place where you can park up and explore on foot.

What We Noticed

There are a few spots along the beach where you can swim. When we were there, the sea was a bit rough, but on a calm day it would be a great place to spend some time in the water.

The town itself leans toward tourism, but it still feels relaxed. The shops are filled with artwork, sculptures and locally made pieces, and there’s some real talent on display. It’s worth taking your time to wander through and have a look.

Along the waterfront, you’ll come across sculptures and artwork that add a bit of character to the place. The big marlin sculpture by the harbour is one of those classic photo spots and hard to miss.

What we experienced

There’s a lot to do in Paihia, especially out on the water, but you don’t need to fill your day with activities to enjoy it.

We kept things simple:

• Dinner at Charlotte’s Kitchen — great service and food that lived up to expectations
• Ice cream by the waterfront
• A bakery stop for a pie
• Fish and chips by the water

Sometimes that’s all you need.

Walks Around Paihia

We also walked out towards Ōpua and back.

It’s best done around low tide, and while it’s a bit of a longer walk, it’s a good option if you’ve got the time and want to stretch the legs a bit further.

There are also well-formed pathways running along the waterfront, making it easy to move between Paihia, Waitangi, and surrounding areas without needing to drive.

Parking & Getting Around

Paihia is easy to walk around, which we found made a big difference.

Parking can be limited in town, especially during busier periods. There are paid parking options available, or you can park a bit further out where longer stays are allowed.

Where we stayed

We stayed at Paihia RV Park for the week, and it worked really well as a base.

For $30 a night we had power, water and internet on a gravel site. It’s secured with chains so only those with the access details can enter. Simple setup, but everything you need.

Location is what makes this spot. Woolworths Paihia is across the road, the beach is about 50 metres away and the Waitangi Treaty Grounds is about 1 km to the left, with Paihia township about 1 km to the right. All easy walking with great pathways along the waterfront.

Tohu Tip: Great base if you want to park up and not drive much.
Local Knowledge: It can be a bit noisy with traffic, but most places along here are similar.

Waitangi

Waitangi sits right next to Paihia, and for most people, it’s an easy continuation along the coast.

Coming from the Paihia side, you round the corner and the coastline opens up into a long stretch of beach heading towards the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. It’s a really nice part of the Bay, with space to spread out and slow things down a bit.

If you’re coming in from State Highway 1, you’ll pass Haruru Falls first — definitely worth stopping. It’s an impressive spot, and you can also walk or bike to it from Waitangi along a shared pathway, or take the track from up near the Treaty Grounds. Return time is around 3 to 4 hours at a relaxed pace.

What We Did

We spent half a day at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds and were really glad we did.

The grounds are beautifully kept, and the information is presented in a way that’s easy to take in. It’s not rushed or overwhelming, just a place where you can slow down and get a better understanding of where you are.

It’s one of those places that stays with you.

Afterwards, we took our homemade sammies down to the beach, watched the boats and windsurfers, and just let the day roll on.

Around the Area

There’s more to Waitangi than just the Treaty Grounds.

• A large BMX track that’s popular with locals
• The Waitangi Golf Club, set above the coastline with views out across the bay
• Easy access to walking and biking tracks between Paihia, Waitangi, and Haruru Falls

There are also a range of accommodation options nearby, from campgrounds through to hotels, making it a really practical place to base yourself.

🚐 Tohu Tip

Take your time at the Treaty Grounds. It’s not a quick stop — give yourself space to take it in properly.

Russell

Russell has a completely different feel to Paihia.

As soon as you step off the ferry, everything slows down. It’s quieter, more relaxed, and easy to explore without needing much of a plan.

We took the ferry across with our bikes so we could cover a bit more ground. Ferries run regularly from early morning through to late evening, so there’s no need to rush. You can buy tickets onboard or at the info centre, with cash or card accepted. Return tickets are available, just make sure you travel back with the same company.

What Makes Russell Feel Different

Russell feels more settled. Less busy, less noise, and more about taking your time.

There’s history here, but also a calmness that’s hard to explain until you’re walking around it. It’s the kind of place where you naturally slow your pace without even thinking about it.

Flagstaff Hill

We started by heading up to Flagstaff Hill. It’s a steady climb and I’ll be honest, I ended up walking the bike for part of it. If you’re on foot, there’s a walking track that takes you up as well.

At the top, the views open right up. You’re looking out across the Bay of Islands and back over Russell, and it gives you a really good sense of where everything sits.

Definitely worth the effort.

Long Beach

From there, we made our way over to Long Beach.

This is a great spot to slow down for a bit. Open space, easy access and a good place to just sit and take it all in.

On a calm day, it would be ideal for a swim.

Back in Town

We wandered back into Russell township and kept things simple.

• A ginger beer at Hone’s Garden
• A walk along the waterfront
• Early dinner at The Duke of Marlborough

Sitting out on the balcony at The Duke, looking out over the water, was one of those moments where everything just felt right.

🚐 Tohu Tip

Bring your bike if you can. It makes it easy to explore beyond the township without needing a car.

🌿 Wrapping It Up

Kawakawa surprised us, Waitangi grounded us, Paihia made things easy, and Russell gave us that slower pace to finish it off.

A really good mix of places and an easy area to explore without feeling rushed.