Kororāreka – ‘sweet blue penguin’, known today as Russell is often called the birthplace of Aotearoa – New Zealand. This picture-perfect seaside town is the country’s oldest European settlement and first seaport. Situated on a peninsula across the harbour from Paihia, it can be reached by passenger ferry, car ferry or by road.
In the early 19th century, Kororāreka was a wild town of scandalous repute, where whalers and merchants mixed with local Māori chiefs and their people. In need of reform, the first Anglican church was built here in 1835 and still stands just behind the town. French Catholic Bishop Jean Baptiste Pompallier arrived in 1839 and the Pompallier Mission became home to the country’s first printing press.
Today, with its many beautiful bays, Kororāreka–Russell is a haven for boaties and home to some of the region’s best cafés, restaurants and coffee spots.
Seaside Charm of Russell
Kororāreka–Russell is surrounded by sheltered bays, each with its own charm. Calm waters make them perfect for swimming, kayaking, or paddleboarding, while the golden sand beaches invite you to simply sit back and take in the view. These coves give Russell a relaxed, village-like feel and make it easy to slow down and enjoy the rhythm of the Bay of Islands.
Big Game Fishing in Kororāreka
Russell has long been known as the “birthplace of big game fishing” in Aotearoa – New Zealand. In the early 20th century, it drew anglers from around the world chasing marlin, swordfish, and kingfish in the deep waters just beyond the bay. That tradition is still alive today, with charter boats offering the chance to head offshore and experience the same thrill. Even if you’re not fishing, the harbour buzzes with a sense of adventure, and the waterfront is dotted with reminders of its seafaring past.
From Oysters to Iconic Inns
The waters around Kororāreka–Russell are home to thriving oyster farms, producing some of the freshest seafood in the Bay of Islands. Local cafés and restaurants showcase these delicacies alongside snapper, kingfish and other kaimoana straight from the sea. For food lovers, it’s the perfect place to taste the region from a simple plate of oysters by the water to a fine dining experience that celebrates the coast.
Some of the most popular spots include:
- The Gables – A historic waterfront restaurant housed in one of New Zealand’s oldest buildings, known for its fresh seafood and romantic harbour views.
- Duke of Marlborough – An iconic inn dating back to 1827, offering hearty meals, local beer and a front-row seat to Russell’s sunset harbour scene.
- Hell Hole Bagels – A cheeky nod to Russell’s wild past, serving artisan bagels and coffee that fuel both locals and travellers.
Whether you’re after fine dining, a casual bite or just a great coffee with a view, Russell has a little something for everyone.
A Relaxed Coastal Vibe
Once known for its rowdy whaling days, Kororāreka–Russell has transformed into a laid-back seaside town. The historic streets are now lined with galleries, cafés and boutique shops while the waterfront hums with the gentle activity of yachts and fishing boats. Visitors come to wander the boardwalk, sip coffee with a harbour view or simply watch the tides roll in. It’s a place where history lingers but the atmosphere is relaxed, welcoming and perfect for slowing down.
Getting to Kororāreka
Kororāreka–Russell feels like a tucked-away seaside village, yet it’s easy to reach from anywhere in the Bay of Islands.
- Passenger Ferry from Paihia – The quickest way across the harbour, with frequent sailings that drop you right at Russell’s waterfront. It’s a short, scenic ride and ideal if you’re travelling without a car.
- Car Ferry from Ōpua – A popular option for those exploring by road. The ferry carries vehicles and passengers, making it easy to continue your journey deeper into the Bay of Islands.
- Coastal Road Drive – For a slower route, the winding road into Russell offers beautiful bush and bay views, giving you a taste of the peninsula’s landscape before you even arrive.
Once in Russell, the harbour is often dotted with yachts and boaties who anchor up in the sheltered bays. Many use Russell as a safe mooring point thanks to its calm waters, creating a lively but relaxed boating community that adds to the town’s charm.
He toka tū moana, ara he toa rongonui.
A rock standing in the sea, a well-known chief.