Wairarapa: A Journey Through Wine Country, Heritage Towns & Rugged Coastlines

/ North Island / By
Ngawi

In the southeastern corner of Aotearoa – New Zealand’s North Island, you’ll find Wairarapa. It’s a region that quietly impresses with rolling vineyards, historic townships, wild coastal landscapes, and skies filled with stars. Here, you can enjoy a relaxed wine tasting one moment and be standing on windswept cliffs the next. Whether you’re into food, history, or nature, Wairarapa offers it all — without the rush or the crowds.

A Personal Note from Us
We’ve explored Wairarapa many times in our campervan and each visit feels like discovering it all over again. The inland towns have charm and character, while the coastline always leaves a lasting impression. We’ve dived the waters near Ngāwī, fished along the shores of Riversdale, and walked the dramatic headlands of Rangiwhakaoma – Castlepoint. And at night? The stars are something else. Whether we’re camped by the beach or parked up inland, the skies here are always crystal clear and full of wonder.

What Makes Wairarapa a Must-Visit Destination?

Castlepoint

Most people know Martinborough for its award-winning Pinot Noir, but that’s just the beginning. Towns like Te Hūpēnui – Greytown, Featherston, and Carterton are full of boutique shops, local food spots, and small-town charm. Greytown is one of our favourites, with tree-lined streets and a peaceful, heritage feel.

On the coast, you’ll find raw beauty at Rangiwhakaoma – Castlepoint and Ngāwī. Think rugged cliffs, black sand beaches, and views that stretch for miles. Inland, quiet roads wind through farmland, native bush, and riverside trails.

As night falls, the skies take centre stage. Wairarapa sits within the Dark Sky Reserve — one of the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. With little light pollution, it’s easy to see the Milky Way, constellations, and sometimes even the Southern Lights. Whether you’re near town or far from it all, the night sky here is unforgettable.

Wairarapa — Māori Name and Cultural Significance

Featherston

Wairarapa means “glistening waters” and is said to have been named by the great navigator Kupe, who saw the light dancing off the region’s lakes and rivers. The area is home to Rangitāne o Wairarapa and Ngāti Kahungunu. For generations, the Ruamāhanga River and surrounding wetlands have supported life, storytelling, and tradition.

You’ll find deep cultural roots here, reflected in place names, marae, and local conservation projects that care for land and water. Across Wairarapa, history and culture go hand in hand with the natural beauty.

Table of Contents

Exploring Wairarapa: From Wine Country to Coastal Wonders

The Wairarapa region is a collection of charming towns and breathtaking natural spots, each with its own personality. Whether you’re into boutique shopping, coastal escapes, or outdoor adventures, this part of Aotearoa – New Zealand caters to every kind of traveller.

Town Life in the Heart of Wairarapa

From vineyard villages to artisan hubs, Wairarapa’s inland towns are full of character. Each one offers something different — whether you’re sipping wine in the sun or wandering heritage streets lined with local makers.

Martinborough

  • This laid-back village is the heart of Wairarapa’s wine country. Flat roads lined with vineyards make it ideal for exploring by bike or on foot and you’ll find no shortage of cellar doors offering world-class Pinot Noir. At the centre of it all is a relaxed village square with cafes, specialty food shops and local artisans. It’s a place that invites you to slow down, take a seat in the sun and sip something special. Find Things to Do in Martinborough here.
Martinborough

Te Hūpēnui – Greytown

  • Te Hūpēnui-Greytown blends heritage and style in a way that few towns can. Known for its carefully preserved Victorian buildings, it also leads the way in boutique shopping and artisan dining. Whether you’re browsing antiques, picking up locally made homeware or sampling fresh pastries from an award-winning bakery, there’s a refined yet welcoming feel that makes Greytown a favourite for weekend escapes.
Greytown

Taratahi – Carterton

  • Taratahi-Carterton is where creativity meets nature. The town has a thriving arts scene with galleries and local makers showcasing everything from textiles to ceramics. Just outside town, the Waiohine Gorge offers one of the most scenic river valleys in the region. Here, you’ll find a high swing bridge stretching across native bush, leading into the Tararua Forest Park — a hiker’s paradise that feels a world away from everyday life.
Carterton

Whakaoriori – Masterton

  • As Wairarapa’s largest town, Whakaoriori-Masterton has plenty going on. It’s a practical base with supermarkets and services but also a centre of regional pride. It’s home to the iconic Golden Shears shearing competition, showcasing the farming heritage that runs deep here. You’ll also find family-friendly parks, walking trails around Henley Lake and regular weekend markets full of local produce, crafts and warm country vibes. Find more Things to Do in Masterton here.
Masterton

Pae Tū Mōkai – Featherston

  • Featherston is full of surprises. From railway history to vintage bookshops, it’s a treasure for those who like their travels with a touch of curiosity. The Fell Locomotive Museum tells the story of a unique era of engineering, while the nearby Remutaka Rail Trail offers cyclists and walkers panoramic views and peaceful trackside scenery. This trail is especially popular for campervan travellers looking to stretch their legs.
Featherston

Wairarapa’s Wild Coast: Ngāwī, Riversdale & Rangiwhakaoma – Castlepoint

The Wairarapa coastline is bold and unforgettable. With weather-beaten cliffs, sweeping beaches, and ocean views that go on forever, it’s the perfect contrast to the quiet charm of the inland towns.

Ngāwī

  • Ngāwī is a small fishing village with a big personality. Dozens of old tractors line the beach, ready to pull boats from the sea — a classic example of Kiwi ingenuity. Just beyond town, the Cape Palliser lighthouse offers a steep stair climb and dramatic views over Cook Strait. This is also one of the best places to spot fur seals with a large colony basking on the rocks year-round.
Fishing off Ngawi Beach

Riversdale Beach

  • Riversdale is a personal and local favourite. With golden sand and gentle waves, it’s ideal for family days, summer swims and surfcasting off the beach. It’s also known for great fishing and a strong sense of community. Whether you’re here for a few hours or a few days, it’s a peaceful place to unwind and enjoy coastal life at its best.
Riversdale

Rangiwhakaoma – Castlepoint

  • This dramatic headland is one of the most photographed spots in the region and for good reason. The striking Castle Rock, curving shoreline and classic lighthouse create a scene that looks like it’s straight from a postcard. You can walk along the cliffs, swim in the lagoon or just sit and take in the ever-changing light. It’s a place that feels powerful, wild and deeply connected to the landscape around it.
Castlepoint

From the vineyards of Martinborough to the wild beauty of Castlepoint, Wairarapa is a region that brings together the best of Aotearoa – New Zealand. Whether you’re visiting for a long weekend or taking your time on a campervan journey, this peaceful and diverse corner of the country will leave a lasting impression.

Best Adventures in and Around Wairarapa

Wairarapa is packed with outdoor experiences, rich stories, and dramatic scenery. From quiet lakes to wild coasts and starry skies, there’s something here for every kind of explorer. Here are some of the best ways to soak up the region’s natural beauty and small-town charm.

Putangirua Pinnacles
  • Climb to the Rangiwhakaoma – Castlepoint Lighthouse
    • One of Aotearoa – New Zealand’s most iconic coastal landmarks, the Castlepoint Lighthouse offers sweeping views of the ocean and reef below. It’s a short but memorable climb to the top, where dramatic waves and rocky cliffs create an unforgettable panorama.
  • Walk Among Seals at Cape Palliser
    • The southernmost point of the North Island is home to the country’s largest fur seal colony. Just past Ngāwī, you’ll find Cape Palliser Lighthouse, reached by a steep flight of 252 steps. Down by the rocks, you can see seals lounging and playing in their natural environment.
  • Explore the Putangirua Pinnacles
    • These towering stone formations are one of Wairarapa’s most surreal landscapes. Known for their appearance in The Lord of the Rings, the pinnacles are reached by a scenic walk through the valley. The higher viewpoints offer some of the best photo opportunities in the region.
  • Cycle the Remutaka Rail Trail
    • This historic trail follows a former railway line through tunnels, bridges and peaceful valleys. It’s a popular route for cyclists of all levels with gentle gradients and wide-open views. The trail is especially scenic in the early morning or late afternoon light.
Greytown’s Heritage and Shopping Scene
  • Hike to Waiohine Gorge and Swing Bridge
    • One of the most dramatic river crossings in the region, the Waiohine swing bridge spans a deep gorge surrounded by native forest. It’s the perfect starting point for day hikes into the Tararua Forest Park, where you’ll find trails of all lengths and levels.
  • Discover Te Hūpēnui – Greytown’s Heritage and Shopping Scene
    • Stroll along tree-lined streets filled with carefully restored Victorian buildings. Inside, you’ll find boutique shops, artisan bakeries and welcoming cafés. Greytown blends historic charm with a fresh, modern vibe that makes it easy to lose track of time.
  • Go Surfing or Fishing at Riversdale Beach
    • This quiet beach is a favourite with locals for good reason. It offers reliable surf breaks, long stretches of soft sand and plenty of space for fishing from the shore. It’s the kind of place where you can slow down, breathe in the salt air and reconnect with the simple things.
  • Experience the Wairarapa Dark Sky Reserve
    • This region is one of the best places in Aotearoa for stargazing. With minimal light pollution and wide open skies, you’ll have a clear view of the Milky Way, southern constellations, and occasionally even the Aurora Australis. Find a quiet spot and let the night sky do the rest.
Surfcasting at Riversdale Beach
  • Kayak or Picnic at Henley Lake in Whakaoriori – Masterton
    • For a gentler outdoor escape, Henley Lake offers a calm setting close to town. It’s perfect for a paddle, a quiet walk, or simply relaxing with a picnic under the trees. The lake is also a great place to spot native birds and enjoy a slower rhythm of travel.
  • Take a Scenic Drive Along the Backroads
    • Sometimes the best way to explore Wairarapa is from behind the wheel. Country roads wind through farmland, forests, and coastal cliffs. Drive the route to Cape Palliser or loop through the Remutaka Ranges and let the journey be part of the adventure.

 Looking for even more ways to explore? We’ve shared some of our favourite highlights, but there’s plenty more to discover. Check out more things to do in Wairarapa here.

🛏️ Wairarapa Region: From Luxury to Delightful Accommodation

No matter how you travel, Wairarapa has a place to stay that suits your style. Whether you’re after a luxurious escape, a boutique country stay, or a coastal campground with a view, there’s something here that fits the bill. These suggestions include places we’ve stayed ourselves and others that come highly recommended.As accommodation details can change over time, we always suggest checking Booking.com, Airbnb, or TripAdvisor for up-to-date reviews before you book.

Affiliate Note: This post contains trusted partner links (including Booking.com, TripAdvisor, and other travel services we personally use). If you book through them, we may earn a small commission — at no extra cost to you. Thanks for supporting Tohu Travellers.
Wharekauhau Country Estate

Luxury & Boutique Stays

  • Wharekauhau Country Estate – Pae Tū Mōkai (Featherston)
    • Set on a 3,000-acre working farm overlooking Palliser Bay, Wharekauhau is one of Aotearoa – New Zealand’s most exclusive luxury lodges. Think private cottages, fine dining, horse trekking, and spa treatments all in a setting that feels worlds away from everyday life.
  • Parehua Resort – Martinborough
    • Nestled among vineyards, Parehua offers lakeside cottages, elegant suites, and vineyard villas ideal for a romantic getaway. Enjoy a soak in a private hot tub, relax with a glass of local wine, and take in the peaceful views that surround you.
  • The White Swan Hotel – Te Hūpēnui (Greytown)
    • This character-filled boutique hotel sits in the heart of Greytown’s heritage precinct. With beautifully restored rooms, a lively restaurant, and easy access to shops and cafes, it’s a stylish and convenient base for your Wairarapa adventure.

Mid-Range & Coastal Comfort

  • Rangiwhakaoma – Castlepoint Holiday Park & Motels
    • Wake up to the sound of waves at this beachfront spot in Castlepoint. With motels, cabins, and campsites on offer, it’s ideal for those who want comfort and coastal adventure. The lighthouse, lagoon, and cliff-top walks are all within easy reach.
  • Gateway Motor Inn – Whakaoriori (Masterton)
    • Comfortable, affordable, and convenient — Gateway Motor Inn is a great option for travellers exploring the Wairarapa region. It’s close to local parks, shops, and events, and offers well-equipped rooms with warm hospitality.
Freedom Camping Ngāwī

Budget-Friendly & Coastal Escapes

  • Waimeha Camping Village – Ngāwī
    • If you’re chasing rugged coastal beauty, this is your place. Located near Cape Palliser, Waimeha offers cabins, powered sites, and tent spaces with unbeatable sea views. It’s a relaxed, off-the-beaten-track stay perfect for nature lovers and budget-conscious travellers alike.
  • Freedom Camping – Ngāwī and Rangiwhakaoma (Castlepoint)
    • For self-contained campervans, freedom camping is a great way to enjoy Wairarapa’s wild coastline on a budget. In Ngāwī, you’ll find a few informal spots near the sea where you can park up for the night — just be sure to follow local signage and Leave No Trace principles.
    • At Rangiwhakaoma – Castlepoint, there are limited freedom camping areas available near the beach. The road in can be narrow and space is tight, so it’s best suited to smaller vans. Arrive early if you’re hoping for a good spot and check the local council’s guidelines for overnight stays.

Best Cafes and Restaurants in Wairarapa

Wairarapa’s food scene is a delicious mix of award-winning bakeries, cosy cafés, and elegant eateries. Whether you’re after a fresh pastry, a hearty brunch, or a refined dinner with a local wine pairing, there’s something here to suit every craving. These are a few food spots we’ve either tried ourselves or come highly recommended — all worth a visit while exploring the region.

Karahui Wine Bar & Eatery – Martinborough
  • Entice Café & Catering – Whakaoriori (Masterton)
    • A much-loved local spot serving up cabinet food, quality coffee, and classic breakfast and lunch dishes. Entice is known for its warm, relaxed vibe and sunny outdoor seating — a great place to unwind before or after a local walk.
  • Ten O’Clock Cookie Bakery Café – Whakaoriori (Masterton)
    • An award-winning favourite famous for its hand-crafted cakes, pastries, and artisan breads. Whether you’re in the mood for a sweet treat or one of their classic pies, this bakery café is a must for foodies passing through Masterton.
  • The Clareville Bakery – Taratahi (Carterton)
    • Housed in a beautifully restored building, this artisan bakery is a destination in its own right. The shelves are packed with sourdough, gourmet pies, and flaky croissants made fresh each morning. Grab something to go or settle in with a coffee and pastry.
  • The Offering – Te Hūpēnui (Greytown)
    • Stylish and welcoming, The Offering is known for its seasonal menu and quality coffee. It’s a favourite brunch spot for both locals and visitors, perfectly placed for a break between exploring the boutiques and galleries nearby.
  • Neighbourhood Coffee House – Martinborough
    • This relaxed café is a hit with coffee lovers and locals alike. Known for its smooth espresso and friendly staff, it’s the kind of place where you can kick back with a flat white and enjoy the village pace.
  • Karahui Wine Bar & Eatery – Martinborough
    • A refined yet relaxed wine bar that champions local flavours. Karahui’s seasonal menu is designed to complement its curated wine list, making it a top choice for a romantic dinner or a long, lazy lunch.

Hungry for more?
These are just a few of the places that stood out to us, but there are plenty more tasty options scattered across the region. Explore more cafés and restaurants in Wairarapa here.

🥾 Best Hiking Trails in and Around Wairarapa

Wairarapa offers an incredible variety of trails — from remote alpine circuits to relaxed lake walks. Whether you’re after a tough overnight tramp, a half-day forest adventure, or a peaceful nature stroll, there’s something here to suit your pace.

Mount Holdsworth

Challenging Hikes: For the Adventurous Explorer

  • Mount Holdsworth – Jumbo Circuit – Tararua Forest Park
    • Distance: 2–3 days | 24 km loop
    • One of Wairarapa’s most demanding and rewarding hikes. This circuit includes steep ascents, exposed ridgelines, and incredible views from Powell and Jumbo Huts. Be prepared for alpine conditions and sudden weather shifts.
  • Cape Palliser Lighthouse and Beyond – Cape Palliser
    • Distance: 5–6 hours (return) | 12 km
    • After climbing the 252 steps to the lighthouse, continue along the coastline past the fur seal colony. This extended route is rugged and wild, offering stunning views of cliffs and ocean, but requires good fitness and sturdy footwear.

Moderate Hikes: Scenic and Rewarding

  • Putangirua Pinnacles Track – Aorangi Forest Park
    • Distance: 2–3 hours (return) | 7 km
    • Walk through a dry riverbed to reach the eerie, towering rock formations made famous in The Lord of the Rings. Take the ridge track for panoramic views of the pinnacles and coastline.
  • Rocky Lookout Track – Mount Holdsworth, Tararua Forest Park
    • Distance: 3–4 hours (return) | 6 km
    • This steady uphill trail takes you through beech forest to a rocky lookout point with wide views over the Wairarapa Valley. A great option if you want a taste of the mountains without committing to an overnight hike.
Henley Lake and Wetlands Walk

Easy Walks: Perfect for a Relaxed Stroll

  • Fensham Reserve Loop – Taratahi (Carterton)
    • Distance: 1–1.5 hours | 3 km loop
    • A peaceful forest loop through native bush, featuring rimu and kahikatea. This well-maintained track is great for families, birdwatchers, or anyone wanting a relaxed nature walk close to town.
  • Henley Lake and Wetlands Walk – Whakaoriori (Masterton)
    • Distance: 30–45 minutes | 2.5 km loop
    • An easy stroll around the lake with wide gravel paths, water birds, and native planting. Fully accessible and great for a morning walk, a picnic, or just soaking up a bit of nature.

Before you head out on any hikes, it’s always a good idea to check the Department of Conservation (DOC) website for the latest trail conditions, weather alerts, and safety updates — especially if you’re planning anything off the beaten track.

🌇 Best Spots for Sunrise and Sunset Spectacles in Wairarapa

With wide open skies, rugged coastal cliffs, and peaceful inland lakes, Wairarapa is a dream for lovers of golden hour. Whether you’re catching the first light of morning or winding down with a sunset, these locations offer stunning views that are well worth the pause.

Coastal Sunset

Best Sunrise Spots – Wake Up to Something Spectacular

  • Rangiwhakaoma – Castlepoint Beach – Rangiwhakaoma (Castlepoint)
    • Known for its panoramic coastal outlook, this is one of the best spots in Aotearoa to watch the sun rise. Head up to Castle Rock or stand by the lighthouse and watch the sky turn shades of pink, orange, and gold as the new day begins.
  • Riversdale Beach – Riversdale
    • A quiet and peaceful spot to greet the morning. With its soft light, gentle surf, and long stretches of sand, Riversdale Beach is perfect for an early stroll or simply sitting by the water with a hot drink in hand.

Best Sunset Spots – Golden Hour Magic

  • Lake Wairarapa – South Wairarapa
    • As the day ends, this expansive lake becomes a mirror for the colours of the sky. Golden reflections ripple across the surface, creating a calm and tranquil atmosphere that’s ideal for photography, reflection, or just a quiet end to the day.
  • Cape Palliser Lighthouse – Cape Palliser
    • This rugged coastal lookout delivers a dramatic finish to any day. With sweeping views over Cook Strait and the distinctive red-and-white lighthouse in

Getting to Wairarapa — the land of glistening waters — is part of the journey. Whether you’re driving through scenic countryside, relaxing on a train, or arriving by air via nearby Wellington, the route is filled with views and moments worth remembering.

  • By Air – Flying In
    • Wairarapa doesn’t have its own airport but the closest major hub is Te Whanganui-a-Tara – Wellington Airport. You can fly from Auckland, Christchurch or Queenstown to Wellington. From there, you can rent a car, book a shuttle, or catch a train into the region. The drive takes around 1.5 to 2 hours depending on traffic and stops along the way.
  • By Car – Campervan/Motorhome The Scenic Route
    • Driving is one of the best ways to explore Wairarapa at your own pace. From Te Whanganui-a-Tara – Wellington, the main route follows State Highway 2 over the Remutaka Hill Road. While winding in parts, it’s well maintained and offers beautiful views across the ranges.
    • If you’re travelling by campervan, you’ll find plenty of great places to pull over — from lookouts along the hill road to stops in welcoming towns like Pae Tū Mōkai – Featherston and Te Hūpēnui – Greytown.
  • By Train – A Relaxing Ride
    • The Wairarapa Line offers a scenic and comfortable journey from Te Whanganui-a-Tara – Wellington. The train travels through the Hutt Valley and rural farmland, with views of vineyards and open plains.
      • Te Whanganui-a-Tara – Wellington to Whakaoriori – Masterton (final stop) – approx. 1 hour 45 minutes
      • Stops include Pae Tū Mōkai – Featherston, Taratahi – Carterton, Woodside, and Te Hūpēnui – Greytown (via shuttle from Woodside Station)
      • It’s a great option if you’d rather not drive and connects easily to local buses or taxis for travel within the region.
  • Other Transport Options
    • Intercity buses offer limited services connecting Wairarapa with Wellington and other parts of the North Island. There are also local shuttle operators offering airport transfers and town-to-town transport.
    • While public transport options are fewer than in larger centres, they’re reliable and ideal for those planning ahead.

No matter how you arrive, Wairarapa’s landscapes, coastlines, and charming towns make every kilometre worth it.

5 Fascinating Facts About Wairarapa Region

Wairarapa might seem like a quiet corner of Aotearoa – New Zealand, but it’s packed with quirky stories, ancient geology, and awe-inspiring natural wonders. Here are five fascinating facts that make this region even more special.

Ngāwī Boat Ramp
  1. Ngāwī Has More Tractors Than People
    • This rugged fishing village on the South Wairarapa coast is famous for its fleet of rusty, well-loved tractors. Locals use them to launch fishing boats into the wild waters of Cook Strait — and with more tractors than residents, it’s one of the highest ratios of its kind anywhere in the world. It’s a classic example of Kiwi ingenuity and a sight that always gets visitors reaching for their cameras.
  2. Home to One of the Largest Dark Sky Reserves in the World
    • Wairarapa is officially recognised as part of an International Dark Sky Reserve — one of the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. With low light pollution and wide open skies, it’s an extraordinary place to see the Milky Way, shooting stars, and even the Southern Lights. Stargazing here is more than just a pretty sight — it’s a powerful, humbling experience.
  3. Rangiwhakaoma – Castlepoint Has the Tallest Lighthouse on the North Island
    • The Castlepoint Lighthouse stands proudly at 52 metres above sea level, making it the tallest of its kind on the North Island. Built in 1913, it has been guiding ships for over a century. With its red-and-white stripes and dramatic clifftop perch, it’s one of the most photographed coastal landmarks in the country.
  4. The Putangirua Pinnacles Are Over a Million Years Old
    • These towering, ghostly rock formations were carved by wind and rain over more than a million years. Known as “badlands erosion,” the geological process behind their formation is rare in Aotearoa – New Zealand. Featured in The Lord of the Rings as the Paths of the Dead, the Pinnacles feel otherworldly and ancient in the best way.
  5. Wairarapa Was Once Covered by a Giant Prehistoric Lake
    • The name “Wairarapa” translates to “glistening waters,” and it’s no coincidence. The region was once submerged beneath a vast inland lake that shaped much of the landscape we see today. The shimmering plains, fertile valleys, and waterways are all reminders of this ancient body of water that gave the region its name.

🌍 Travel Planning Resources

These are the tools we personally use and trust when planning our travels — from finding a place to stay to booking activities, transport, and insurance. Let your Tohu guide you — Trust the Journey and follow what feels right for you.

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E hoa ma, ina te ora o te tangata 

My friends, this is the essence of life